1. DOT Certification: The helmet that you buy must have a Department of Transportation certification. This is a guarantee that the helmet meets the basic safety requirements.

2. Retention: Do a roll off test before you buy a helmet. This test is simple. All that you need to do is to secure the straps, grab the rear lip of the helmet and try to roll it forward off your head. Don’t stop if it hurts. A helmet should stay on your head at the moment of impact. If the helmet comes off, then don’t buy it. There is no point having a fractured head and an intact helmet lying a few feet away.

3. Fit: The fit decides the retention factor of a helmet. The fit should be snug and the helmet should stay stable. A full-face helmet should grip your cheeks and jaw as well as the top and sides of your head. When you move the helmet your skin must move as well.

4. Comfort: Comfort is a sum total of many things: the fit, the feel, the weight, the soundproofing. When trying on a helmet keep it on for at least 20 minutes. Then check to see what are the areas of discomfort.

5. Coverage: A full helmet is better than a half helmet and a full-face helmet (with a chin bar) gives more protection than an open-face style.

6. Face shield: If you are buying a helmet with a face shield go for Snell-certified helmets. The shield should be easy to operate and stay in position when raised. Also check for optical distortions. They can be dangerous.

7. Convenience features: Along with an extra shield and a quick-change face shield mechanism, a storage bag is a useful feature to look for. You can use it to carry helmets.

8. Comfort features: Vents, padded straps and, interchangeable padding shapes to fit your head shape are comfort features. But remember vents can cause wind noise and can also get damaged easily.

9. Appearance: Appearance is largely a personal choice. The only advantage that a florescent helmet has is that it will stand out more during the day.

10. Cost: Go for the helmet that meets all the criteria outlined above, even if it is cheaper than other helmets. Price is not always an absolute indicator of quality.

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For years, they’ve represented freedom on the open road to several generations of Americans, but there are still those of us who don’t know much about motorcycles but would like to. Still, there’s one thing that’s undeniable. The motorcycle is part of the American way of life.

First the basics: What actually makes up what many enthusiasts refer to as the Iron Horse?’ Like many other mechanized things today, most modern motorcycles are mass-produced using aluminum for the frames. Motorcycle engines are gasoline powered and usually have a five or six speed transmission. While many of us are familiar with the North American made Harley Davidson, there are other manufacturers from various countries who sell their motorcycles in North America as well as world wide. Some well know Japanese makers are Honda and Yamaha brand motorcycles.

Although there are motorcycles for every walk of life and need, from Japanese made commuter bikes to the racing machines that come equipped with wind screens to cut down on air resistance, it’s the Harley Davidson motorcycle that has become a household name.

Harley Davidson, the most famous bike in the world of motorcycles, was started in Milwaukee in 1903. By 1917 one third of all Harleys built were sent overseas to help with the war effort. By 1918, Harley Davison had the biggest motorcycle factory in the world. But the history of one of America’s favorite pastimes goes back even further.

It is generally accepted that the very first motorcycle was a two cylinder steam engine variety invented in 1867. The first record of any type of motorcycle goes back to 1885, with an engine that was attached to a wooden bike by a man named Gottlieb Daimler.

Like many other industries, the history of the motorcycle is divided into clear divisions or time segments. The next notable era is the time between 1955 and 1985 that was characterized by some of the other big names in motorcycle history such as the Indian.

Even though the Beatles weren’t about to invade American shores with their brand of British music for another ten years, the English Indian motorcycle was out selling the American competition in the 1950s. Another big name that made its appearance in the pre-Japanese era of motorcycle production is Norton.

At one point in time, the Norton motorcycle gave the bigger names like Harley Davidson a run for their money in the motorcycle subculture.

If you’re wanting to get started riding, you’ll need to obtain a motorcycle license. While the requirements for a motorcycle license vary from state to state, there are generally some accepted prerequisites that don’t change. Most states require a commercial driver’s license before they will allow an applicant to start the procedure for getting a motorcycle license. Also, a person will usually need to pay related fees and take tests that vary from state to state.

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The most common material for motorcycle leather is cowhide, chosen for its strength and durability. Buffalo hide, another high quality leather, is made not from the U.S. buffalo, but the water buffalo most commonly found in India and Pakistan. Many leather products come from this part of the world, and the Pakistanis are world renown for their expertise in the manufacturing of leather garments. Whichever type of hide you choose, you must understand the tanning process, and how it adds or detracts from the quality of the leather.

Leather was of course once the skin of an animal, and therefore must go through a tanning process to strengthen it, and to keep it from decomposing. Tanning makes the skin stable and rot proof without sacrificing its structure and strength. The tanning process involves several stages, including the removal of the hair and the outer layer of skin, as well as the fatty part of the flesh. The hide is then stabilized by one of several methods using animal oils, alum, chrome salts or vegetable tanning. How it is actually finished determines the quality, or riding grade, for our purposes.

Types of Leather

To fully understand the types of leather available, one must first know the term “grain”. The grain is simply the epidermis, or outer layer of the animal’s skin. While imperfections such as cuts, scars, and scratches will exist, the grain in its natural state has the best fiber strength, and therefore the best durability. The grain also has natural breathability, resulting in greater comfort to the wearer.

Finished Split Leather

The middle or lower section of a hide that has been split into two or more thicknesses. A polymer coating is applied and embossed to mimic grain leather. Finished splits should only be used in low stress applications because they basically have no grain. If the polymer coating is left out it is often used to make suede. Not considered to be riding grade, but can look good nevertheless.

Top Grain Leather

Top grain leather has been sanded to remove scars and imperfections, then sprayed or pasted for a uniform look. The smooth side is where the hair and the natural grain used to be. Top grain is not the same quality as full grain or naked leather, but thicknesses of 1.2-3mm make this type of leather a very strong and durable riding grade material.

Full-Grain and Naked Leather

Full-Grain leather is made from the finest hides, and has not been sanded to remove imperfections. Only the hair has been removed. In the case of Naked Leather, where nothing other than the dye is added; this very soft leather requires no breaking in period. Hides are typically 2mm thick, and must be hand picked for uniformity. The natural full-grain naked leather will wear better than other leather, and will actually improve over the years. This type of leather is the ultimate riding grade; the most sought after, and consequently, the most expensive.

Now that we know what type of leather we want, we must understand the fact that leather is hot, and understand the options that we have for the climate we live in. For winter biking, a jacket with side laces and a belt will allow you to adjust the jacket to fit snugly against the upper body. Of course, being able to fully zip up only adds to your protection from the wind. You can also wear a leather vest underneath your motorcycle jacket for extra warmth. For hot summer days, a leather jacket with air vents allows the air to circulate underneath the jacket and around your body. For an all year round jacket, consider one with a zip or snap out insulated lining.

Leather is not meant to get wet, as that tends to deplete the natural oils, and it is advisable to wear a rain suit over your leathers in inclement weather. However if they do get wet, allow them to dry naturally away from extreme heat. If the leather seems to be losing its luster, it can be oiled to improve its appearance. This supplements the natural oils in the leather itself, which can be washed out through repeated exposure to water. Frequent oiling of leather with mink oil or other commercially available products will keep your leathers supple and improve their lifespan dramatically.

Now that you have found the perfect biker jacket, take care of it, and it will reward you with years of wear. The typical lifetime of a heavy textile jacket will be from 3 to 6 years at the most. A well maintained top quality leather motorcycle jacket will easily give you 10 years and more of riding pleasure!

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Motorcycle Tips - How To Winterize Your Bike
By Matt Hick

Sad, but true, it’s that time again… time to winterize your motorcycle. As difficult as it may be to even consider putting your bike away during the harsh months to come, it is a must in order to keep it safe. Those living in harsher climates especially need to take special precautions to ensure that their bike stays in shape for riding once the weather breaks and spring returns.

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To keep your motorcycle in tip-top running shape, figure on taking at least one full day to get it prepared for storage. Follow these simple tips to help protect your motorcycle this winter, so it’ll be ready to hit the road again come spring:

-Change the Oil and lubricate all moving parts.

-Purge The Carbs, always remembering to add gasoline stabilizer to the tank before storing.

-Wash and dry your bike thoroughly before storage. A leaf blower works great in frying off excess water.

-Check your belt drive for any signs of wear and tear at the end of each riding season.

-Wax all painted areas and the frame to keep moisture from causing problems over the winter months.

-Clean and polish all chrome parts and rims with a coat of chrome polish or silicone lube.

-Adjust and lubricate your drive chain.

-Take special care of your battery by removing it for the winter months. Always clean the terminal and check the fluids (adding more when needed). Store on a wooden plank only - never concrete!

-To keep unwanted guests from setting up housecleaning in your exhaust pipes, be sure to stuff a rag in the end or cover with a plastic bag. Always REMOVE prior to starting up your bike in the spring!

-Keep your bike covered when stored with a good quality motorcycle cover or cotton bed sheet.

-Remove all removable equipment and store in a relatively warm place (oil dipstick, temperature gauge, etc.

-Leave a note for yourself to remind you of any parts that need replaced or rechecked or maintenance that will be required before heading out on the open road once again.

Motorcycles may seem like big strong machines that need little tender loving care, but the truth is a motorcycle needs a lot of attention in order to ensure that it rides safely and stays problem free for years to come. Those living in warmer climates may be able to forgoes the storage tips listed here, but those living in the colder climates of the Northeast and Northwest mountains should take the time to carefully prepare their bikes for the winter season.

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